This eye-catching Japanese hot spot marks the DC debut of London restaurateur Arjun Waney, also behind the modern-izakaya phenom Zuma, which has several locations around the globe. Shoto’s fusiony menu can feel as intimidatingly giant as the chandelier-like volcanic-rock installation hovering over the dining room. Yet we prefer to skip the set omakase tasting and choose for ourselves, dabbling in fancy one-bite tacos filled with grilled A5 Wagyu, sea-bass sashimi with yuzu, and plenty from the robata section of grilled delights such as shiitakes in wafu butter or beef tenderloin with sweet soy. Expensive.
