After over nine months of repairs, Ben’s Chili Bowl on U Street reopened Friday with a go-go-filled celebration. While some guests arrived to check out the landmark eatery for the first time, for many—such as filmmaker Spike Lee, who flew in from Atlanta, and DC delegate Eleanor Holmes Norton—it was a long-awaited reunion.
Fourth-generation Washingtonian Ann Batiste sat at the counter, waiting on her signature order: a half smoke with chili and no onions, plus a slice of chocolate cake. It’s the same order she’s had since first coming to Ben’s when it opened its doors in 1958.
At 85 years old, Batiste has seen the restaurant evolve from a formerly segregated space to a nationally known destination. After she graduated from Eastern High School’s first integrated class in 1958, she went on to study at DC Teachers College, and she often went to Ben’s after class: “The food was good, we could afford it as college students, and the camaraderie and atmosphere was always the tops.”
Batiste calls the place’s new look “beautiful,” and appreciates that it’s retained the same approachable and warm atmosphere she has always loved.
The reopening marks another chapter in the storied history of U street, formerly known as Black Broadway, and the Chili Bowl itself. It served as a safe gathering place for Black residents during pivotal moments in the civil rights movement, including the March on Washington and the riots that followed Martin Luther King Jr.’s assassination. Today, its walls (and an outdoor mural) are covered with photos and depictions of its many fans: Dr. King, Jesse Jackson, Barack Obama and several other entertainers and politicians.
Friday’s reopening came with a tribute to co-founder Virginia Ali, colloquially known as “Mom.” While the restaurant is now operated by her children and their spouses, the 92 year-old matriarch still greets her customers: “I love coming to the Chili Bowl every day. I want to tell my story. And I want to hear your story. Because everybody has a story.”
“This reopening during Small Business Month makes this celebration even more meaningful,” said the Ali Family in a joint statement. “It is our way of honoring Mom—not only as the heart of Ben’s, but as a woman whose leadership, strength, love, and wisdom have shaped this community for more than six decades.”
Others that were there to celebrate included veteran radio personality Donnie Simpson; former first lady of DC Cora Masters Barry; and First Lady of Maryland Dawn Moore. Commanders MVP Doug Williams gifted Mrs. Ali a jersey and helmet. DC Mayor Muriel Bowser also gave a speech, and declared May 1 “Ben’s Chili Bowl Day” in the District.
Mrs. Ali told Washingtonian that her family wouldn’t let her go inside the restaurant during the renovations—they wanted to keep it a surprise. The building, originally the Minnehaha Theatre built in 1910, was renovated with new plumbing, electrical wiring and roofing, according to Nizam Ali, the youngest of the Ali children.
Mrs. Ali later said was very happy to see “her baby” still standing.
After cutting the ribbon, Mrs. Ali left the crowd with some parting words of wisdom: “Treat everybody the way you want to be treated and you’ll never have a problem. It’s all about a little bit of kindness.”
Jenae Barnes previously reported and fact-checked for Capital B Gary in Indiana, 5280 Magazine in Denver, Forbes in New York and ABC News in Washington, D.C. She is a 2024 Pulitzer Center Reporting Fellow. As a DC-area native, she received her Bachelor’s from George Mason University and Master’s degree from Columbia Journalism School.
