Lucky Danger

Tim Ma’s sit-down iteration of his Arlington takeout joint breathed new life into Penn Quarter’s dining scene when it opened last year. The Chinese-American menu is as fun as the vibes. (Check out the mahjong lounge in back.) Snack on crisp-chewy allium pancakes with whipped tofu and upgraded crab rangoons with Old Bay. When it comes to spice levels, this place doesn’t mess around: Chongqing chicken is piled with chilies, and mapo tofu with chewy rice cakes brings the heat. Crab lo mein offers comfort with springy fresh noodles in leek fondue, topped with a heap of lump crab.