Le Diplomate

There’s plenty of competition within the French dining scene right now, but Stephen Starr’s bustling brasserie still packs in the crowds. The always steady kitchen turns out textbook versions of easy-to-like bistro hits: steak au poivre, onion soup, trout amandine. It’s a place where you can splurge on oysters and chilled lobster with a bottle of Moët—or just grab a great cheeseburger at the bar.