Every time we head to this cafe, an ode to the fire-and-vinegar-stoked cuisine of China’s Shanxi Province, we find something new to obsess over. Recently, it was a platter of knife-cut noodles heaped with pork ribs and chilies. In the past, we’ve fallen for the kitchen’s hot-oil-seared noodles, and a lineup of “burgers” on rice-flour buns. Inexpensive.
