Glam Italian steakhouse Acqua Bistecca was supposed to be chef Michael Mina’s big second act in Washington. The Bourbon Steak chef, who has dozens of restaurants across the world, debuted the splashy City Ridge dining room last September with an elevated surf-and-turf menu of grilled fish alongside Lambrusco-buttered steaks—plus novelties like a $42 mozzarella stick with caviar.
But Acqua Bistecca was not the hit it aimed to be. The Washington Post‘s new food critic Elazar Sontag gave it his first zero-star review. Now less than a year after opening, the restaurant has closed. Its last service was Monday, August 10.
“The past six months have been some of the hardest our industry has faced in a long time, with operational challenges and devastating losses in cities across the country. Opening a new dynamic restaurant into these headwinds made it especially hard to sustain,” wrote Mina in an email statement. In particular, he cited impacts on travel and tourism as well as the rising costs of products and energy. “When we launched Acqua Bistecca last year, we set out to build something ambitious — a new concept, powered by an incredible team of local talent. From the kitchen to the host stand, I am deeply grateful to everyone who cared for our guests every day.”
But local media criticism suggests problems went beyond industry headwinds. In his March review, Sontag recounted an “uninspired” menu bogged down by its “corporate culinary team” with middling steaks and uneven sides. Meanwhile, Washingtonian critic Ann Limpert noted stressed-out servers (“Where the f— are the children’s menus?” she overheard one say). And while the dining room may have been stunning with its towering mirrored bar and velvety booths, the suburban-feeling setting was not. “Sip your $19 Manhattan with a view of . . . Wegmans,” Limpert wrote.
Still, Mina tells Washingtonian that the zero-star review did not lead to the closure: “Regarding the review, that never plays into our decision as we remain constantly focused on the reviews we receive each day from our guests. Acqua Bistecca always received high marks with our clientele, and I am very proud of our team.”
Acqua Bistecca continues to operate a location in Florida, and Mina says he will “continue to grow in other locations, and I look forward to that next chapter.”
Jessica Sidman covers the people and trends behind DC’s food and drink scene. Before joining Washingtonian in July 2016, she was Food Editor and Young & Hungry columnist at Washington City Paper. She is a Colorado native and University of Pennsylvania grad.
