Rooster & Owl

Chef Yuan Tang’s four-course tasting menu can feel all over the place, but that’s also the fun of it. One minute you’re eating cacio e pepe reimagined as a Bartlett-pear salad with shavings of Tête de Moine cheese; the next you’re digging into fried Japanese yam—crisped outside, creamy inside—balanced by the tang of lime yogurt, spicy Thai-chili jam, and crisp apple slivers. But not every dish is a wild mash-up: Short-rib Diane is a perfectly cooked steakhouse ode served with petite sides of Hasselback potatoes and creamed spinach.