Fiola

Fabio Trabocchi’s Italian dining room exudes luxury, even when it comes to the humblest ingredients. Chef Antonio Mermolia turns Yukon potatoes into a silky olive-oil-whipped custard with crispy lentils, while pasta mista (traditionally, a mix of pasta scraps) is elevated with caviar, sea urchin, and other prized seafood. Five different tasting menus—including those devoted specifically to meat, seafood, or vegetables—let you choose how splurgy to get. (À la carte is available some weekdays or at the bar.) Whatever you choose, the kitchen’s pastas always wow, including cube-shaped ravioli filled with 15-day-dry-aged duck.