Barbouzard

Cedric Maupillier, one of the city’s top French chefs, is back in action at this glitzy downtown ode to the Riviera. (It couldn’t feel farther from his neighborhoody bistro Convivial, which closed a year ago.) We love his cheeky takes on classics, such as already-cheesy gougères served with Comté fondue or a stunner of a deconstructed bouillabaisse. It’s fun to see him play with luxe ingredients like Hokkaido scallops in a creamy, curry-scented sauce. And at lunch, the office crowds have discovered that the fast-moving two- and three-course prix fixes are a terrific deal.