Bistro Aracosia, Aracosia & Afghania

These family-owned restaurants go beyond the greatest hits of Afghan cuisine with a roster of soulful vegetable and meat stews. Most memorable are a deeply flavorful lamb-and-okra version and another rendition with chicken thighs, garlic yogurt, greens, and cilantro. Classic plates, such as dumplings dressed with dried mint and yogurt; lavish rice with raisins, carrots, and pistachios; and charred lamb chops are expertly done, too.