Washingtonian hosted its annual Best of Washington party last night at the Anthem. The rock-and-roll-themed bash included bites and drinks from more than 80 DC-area restaurants—our biggest lineup ever. Our food team was tasked was trying it all (tough work, we know) and sharing some of our favorites:
Best in show: The Dabney brought peak summer to the party. Intensely sweet sugar cube melon was garnished with chili-lime honey crunch and mint, while a Fireside Farm’s gold bar squash soup featured heath-roasted tomato, cocozelle zucchini, and charred corn. Both were simple, refreshing, and exactly what you crave on a warm summer evening.
Best in show from guest judge and local Chopped winner Leigh Orleans: “The dish I kept coming back to was the ravioli at L’Ardente. Tender confit duck encased in bright green parsley-spinach pasta with a rich truffle cream sauce made for a smart, flawlessly executed, perfectly balanced bit.”
Best reason to get in line: The staff of Peruvian-Japanese hotspot Maru San had a tough job at last night’s event: making each hand roll to order for a line of guests that snaked well past the next booth. The nori wrapper was still crisp for every guest. Most were waiting for the Peruvian-influenced salmon belly acevichado with sweet potato and leche de tigre aioli, but the spicy cauliflower filling was tasty, too.
Best noodle dish: There was stiff competition, but the Yanji cold rice noodles from Northwest Chinese Food, topped with slivers of cucumber, cherry tomatoes, and kimchi, were zippy and refreshing enough to stand out from everything else. This restaurant recently had to close its doors because of a landlord dispute, but thankfully co-owner Xue Ling tells us reopening day will be coming soon.
Best sandwich: When we walked by the Silver and Sons BBQ booth, pitmaster Jarrad Silver was slicing substantial mini-sandwiches off from a sesame-seeded challah submarine that must have been at least two feet long. Tucked into the soft bread were smoked brisket, melted cheese, cherry peppers, and fried chicken skin— part Philly cheesesteak, part Jewish deli, part Texas barbecue.
Most decadent bite: Texas-style barbecue destination 2Fifty served up thick, fatty slabs of pork belly with crispy skin torched before serving. The meat was dressed up with a rich mole sauce and local microgreens.
Best rice bowl: The Baan Mae team brought a dish that perfectly represented chef Seng Luangrath’s Lao soul food: thom khem, chunks of five-spice-braised pork belly in a rich sauce of caramelized palm sugar, ginger, garlic, soy, and mango over jasmine rice.
Best showstopping rice dish: Chef Shamim Popal herself was dishing out qabuli pulao, the Afghan national dish of long-grain rice topped with braised lamb, raisins, and sweet slivered carrots, at the Lapis booth. When she lifted the lid of the elegant chafing dish, the scent of cardamom poured out.
Best handheld snack: Brasero Atlántico, the new Argentinian restaurant in Georgetown, brought empanadas straight from its menu, and they happen to be some of the best in town. While they offered beef and ossobuco fillings, our favorite is a creamy combination of king crab and shrimp.
Best crab dishes: Sister restaurants Pascual and Lutèce combined forces to create mini crab tostadas with heirloom tomatoes, nduja, and delfino (a type of cilantro sourced from a local farm). Meanwhile, Laos in Town wowed us with a crab salad nestled in a sweet cracker with some chili heat.
Best dumpling: Fine-dining Indian restaurant Rania spoiled the crowd with perfect little dumplings in coconut curry.
Best spicy dish: Mama Chang brought the heat with its garlicky cucumber salad topped with a Szechuan-style chicken.
Best street food: The team of El Sol sizzled up hot and crispy tacos de birria stuffed with slow-braised beef, Chihuahua cheese, onions, and cilantro.
Best straight-up luxury: Georgetown sushi den Kyojin was serving caviar-topped crispy sushi rice, but the real hit was the huge tin of Merolin Caviar from which the team doled out caviar bumps.
Most beautiful desserts: McLean tea shop and restaurant ArTeA’s table looked like a high-end pastry shop. Fruity sweets crafted into the shapes of bananas, raspberries, and pears were displayed alongside an assortment of macarons.
Best dessert: The “faux gras” parfait from Barbouzard was cute, but the real star was a “baba piña colada,” a little plastic cup full of interesting textures. The confection consisted of layers of rum-soaked sponge brioche, coconut cream, and caramelized pineapple, topped with small cubes of translucent rum jelly.
Jessica Sidman covers the people and trends behind DC’s food and drink scene. Before joining Washingtonian in July 2016, she was Food Editor and Young & Hungry columnist at Washington City Paper. She is a Colorado native and University of Pennsylvania grad.
Ike Allen covers politics, food, culture, and transportation in DC and writes the monthly Hidden Eats column for the magazine. He grew up in DC.
