L’Ardente

Forty-layer lasagna is this chic Italian spot’s Instagram darling, but on our last visit, branzino was the dish of the night. Deboned, stuffed with fennel and kalamata olives, and drizzled with a bright salmoriglio sauce, it sets the city’s standard for the ubiquitous whole fish. Pasta is still a must-get, whether cacio e pepe, strozzapreti with Bolognese, or pappardelle with serrano-chili-flecked white ragu. Like that lasagna, tiramisu flambé is another showpiece that delivers in flavor.