The place has a festive air, as if the owners had siphoned off some of the spillover crowd standing in line at nearby Lauriol Plaza. So far the cooking, for all its brightness and authentic ingredients, isn’t ready for prime time: The mole is more gentle than gutsy, some of the meats have been tough, and the drinks are too weak.
This appears in our August 2007 issue of Washingtonian.
Executive Food Editor/Critic
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
