Arrels

The mollette—a wondrous pileup of pulled oxtail with pickled vegetables and a sherry glaze—strikes a hearty note on a menu rife with crab, lobster, and oysters at Pepe Moncayo’s mod-Spanish eatery. Not that you should skip more elegant plates—namely, a memorable grilled shrimp bathed in garlic-lemon purée and set over grits; a meaty Ibérico pork chop with pickled-fennel-and-apple salad; and the terrifically textural vermicelli dish known as fideua, served here with Manchego, jamón, and truffle cream.