Del Mar

The paella, a lavish gathering of lobster, giant prawns, mussels, and monkfish, is reason alone to snag a table at Fabio Trabocchi’s soaring glass dining room overlooking the Wharf. But it’s not the only one. Caviar canapés with nori crème fraîche; red-shrimp crudo; and smoked swordfish put us in the mind of sun-splashed Spanish isles. Some dishes, like jamón-flecked croquetas and Mallorcan sabrasado—a spreadable pork sausage—are humbler and heartier but no less compelling. Even the ubiquitous potato-and-egg tortilla delivers bliss, with Mahon cheese and a pricey but worthwhile add-on: truffles.