You know you’ve ordered well when the diners next to you lean over to ask what’s on your table. Such is the case with this formidable Thai restaurant’s fried-papaya salad—golden fritters of fruit with lime sauce. Expect everyone to continue ogling the fried snapper prettied up with strips of green mango and cashews. Another treasure: banana-blossom salad with coconut milk, chicken, and shrimp. Inexpensive.
