Could the era—nay, foodie tradition—of standing in line outside Aaron Silverman’s Barracks Row restaurant be over? Mostly, thanks to new same-day online booking. While the splendid rowhouse is no longer the white-hot spot it once was, we’d argue it’s warmer these days, thanks to those customer-friendly reservations and ever-changing menus that keep culinarians on their toes. A lineup of ten-odd small plates means you can order all plus a bigger share. Recent hits included coconut ice cream with caviar (it works!), squash-blossom rangoon stuffed with crab, barbecue ribs lacquered in fish-sauce caramel, and shrimp scampi–esque pasta. One oft-recurring pleasure: that delicious brisket platter heaped with tender meat and white bread. Expensive.
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
Anna Spiegel covers the dining and drinking scene in her native DC. Prior to joining Washingtonian in 2010, she attended the French Culinary Institute and Columbia University’s MFA program in New York, and held various cooking and writing positions in NYC and in St. John, US Virgin Islands.
Jessica Sidman covers the people and trends behind D.C.’s food and drink scene. Before joining Washingtonian in July 2016, she was Food Editor and Young & Hungry columnist at Washington City Paper. She is a Colorado native and University of Pennsylvania grad.
