100 Very Best 2014Had enough of small plates and molecular cuisine? Check out
this modern Alsatian brasserie. As at executive chef Liam LaCivita’s other
eateries—Liberty Tavern and Northside Social—this is very much a
neighborhood drop-by spot. Killer cocktails, a thoughtful beer list, and
wines from small family-owned vineyards in France are one reason. The
kitchen’s craft approach to everything from wursts and condiments to
breads and ice cream is another. Chef de cuisine Andy Bennett takes on
schnitzels, bratwursts, and choucroute and gives them lightness without
sacrificing savor.
At happy hour—daily from 3 to 7—house-ground burgers (with
raclette cheese and fries) are $10 and short-rib franks are
$6. Don’t miss: Escargots with Pernod and pink-peppercorn
butter; kielbasa with smoked paprika; trout with citrus brown butter; veal
schnitzel with mustard spaetzle; choucroute garni; profiteroles with
pistachio ice cream. Open: Monday through Friday for
lunch and dinner, Saturday and Sunday for brunch and dinner.
Moderate.
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
