From April 2006 Dirt Cheap Eats
There's nothing automated about this Afghani grill, which serves up slow-cooked deliciousness at fast-food prices. Go for the bone-in chicken kebab ($6.19)–easily the best of the mouth-watering meats, which also include tender lamb chops and minced, pungently spiced ground beef. It's cooked to order over charcoal and requires a wait of up to 20 minutes. Sit tight. The finished product, served with a mound of rice and a salad, both just okay, has all the juicy, smoky appeal of a picnic barbecue.
Executive Food Editor/Critic
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
