From “Best of Silver Spring,” September 2004
Yes, it's loud, and service can be iffy. But when it comes to eggs Benedict and burgers, the kitchen at this Canadian-based chain of restaurants knows its stuff. The look is homey-rustic with a Gallic riff–crazy twisted wrought-iron railings, brick walls, gas fireplace, wooden booths, and shelves of books that look like the Cat in the Hat was there. At first glance the menu might seem overwhelming, but you can quickly write off anything resembling a dinner entrée and some of the sillier breakfast notions. Omelets, waffles, and pancakes–I like the layered "high rise" with bacon and sausage–are all respectable, but it's the eggs Benedicts that draw the raves–smoked salmon and Chesapeake crab versions are tops.
Burgers hit the mark, too–handmade patties with a good meat-to-bun ratio and classic toppers like bleu cheese, cheddar, and mushrooms. One wild-card burger that works is the Parisienne, with Gruyère and hard-boiled egg slices. Main courses like grilled salmon are rather lackluster and, surprisingly, so are French imports like the rubbery crepes and the Croque Monsieur, which bears little resemblance to the original. Desserts suffer from diner syndrome–they look better than they taste.
