Preserve

The pan-seared bavette at this casual-chic restaurant devoted to all things fermented is one of the best steaks we’ve had in months. Finished with a tor-rent of bourbon-pickled mustard seeds and kimchi-spiked jus, the medium-rare slices are all flavor and chew. Other worthy mainstays include a juicy burger and a smoked-fish dip with diced pickles and fabulous housemade crackers. Pairings are thoughtful: Butter­milk blue cheese punctuates a bowl of greens tossed with fig-cider vinaigrette, while pickle-brined fried oysters are sided with preserved-lemon aïoli. The retro shrimp toast is a deliciously updated nod to the ’70s pupu platter.